Answers to Questions Florida Homeowners Ask Us About Their Roofs

Roofing in Florida comes with its own set of questions. How long should a roof last here? Is a metal roof really better in a hurricane? Why is my tile roof leaking when none of the tiles are broken? Will peel-and-stick help with my wind mitigation?

These are the kinds of questions homeowners ask us every day.

Assurance Residential was established in 2008, and over the years we’ve worked on everything from straightforward shingle repairs to large, complicated tile and standing seam metal roofs. We’ve also seen plenty of roofs where the problem wasn’t what the homeowner expected.

We put this page together to answer some of the questions we hear most often and explain a few things Florida homeowners may want to know before repairing or replacing a roof.

Some answers will depend on the individual house, location, roofing system, current building requirements, and manufacturer specifications. When that’s the case, we’ll tell you.

Florida Roofing Basics

How long does a roof last in Florida?

We get this question all the time, and unfortunately there isn’t one number that applies to every roof.

We’ve seen older roofs that are still performing well and much newer roofs that already have problems.

The roofing material certainly matters, but so does the quality of the original installation. Ventilation, sun exposure, storm history, roof design, maintenance, and proximity to saltwater can all affect how a roof ages.

Tile roofs are a good example. The concrete or clay tile itself may still look great while the underlayment or flashing underneath it has developed problems.

That’s why we prefer to look at the condition of the entire roofing system rather than deciding a roof is good or bad based only on its age.

How do I know if I need a roof repair or a complete replacement?

A leak does not automatically mean you need a new roof.

Sometimes we find a very specific problem—a pipe boot, flashing detail, damaged roofing material, or another isolated area—that can reasonably be repaired.

Other times we start looking and find that the visible leak is only one symptom of a larger problem.

If a roof has widespread deterioration, repeated leaks in different areas, significant underlayment problems, or repairs that are becoming increasingly difficult, replacement may make more sense.

We’d rather figure out why the roof is leaking first and then talk about the appropriate way to fix it.

Does Florida’s sun and heat really damage roofs?

Absolutely. Spend a summer afternoon on a Florida roof and you’ll understand how much heat a roofing system deals with.

UV exposure and high temperatures can affect roofing materials over time. Then add Florida’s humidity, afternoon thunderstorms, wind-driven rain, tropical systems, and occasional hurricanes.

Along the Emerald Coast and Florida Panhandle, we also have coastal conditions to consider.

This is one reason we pay attention to more than the material you see from the street. Underlayment, ventilation, flashing, fasteners, penetrations, and installation details all matter.

What type of roof is best for a Florida home?

There isn’t one answer we’d give every homeowner.

We install architectural shingles, standing seam metal, exposed-fastener metal, and tile roofing, and each system has situations where it makes sense.

The house itself matters. So does the roof design, location, budget, neighborhood requirements, proximity to the Gulf, and what the homeowner wants the finished house to look like.

Instead of asking which roofing material is universally “best,” a better question is:

What’s the right roofing system for this particular house?

That’s what we try to determine with the homeowner.

Is roofing near the Gulf different from roofing farther inland?

It can be.

Homes along the Emerald Coast can be exposed to high winds, wind-driven rain, intense sunlight, humidity, and salt carried through the coastal environment.

Metal components deserve particular attention near saltwater. Fasteners, flashing, exposed metal, coatings, and manufacturer requirements all need to be considered when selecting a system.

A product that works well in one location isn’t automatically the right choice for every coastal property.

Tile Roofing Questions

Why is my tile roof leaking when I don’t see any broken tiles?

This surprises a lot of homeowners.

The tile isn’t the only thing keeping water out of your house.

Underneath a tile roof is an entire roofing system that includes underlayment, flashing, valleys, penetrations, roof-to-wall connections, decking, and other components.

We’ve looked at tile roofs that appeared beautiful from the ground but had problems underneath.

Water can also travel after it gets beneath a roofing system, so the stain on the ceiling doesn’t necessarily tell us exactly where the water entered.

Finding a tile roof leak sometimes takes more investigation than simply looking for a cracked tile above the wet spot.

Can you replace just a few broken roof tiles?

Many times, yes.

If the roofing system underneath is in good condition and we’re dealing with isolated damaged tiles, replacing individual tiles may make sense.

Finding the replacement tile can sometimes be the difficult part.

Manufacturers change products. Colors change. Profiles change. Some tiles are discontinued entirely. On an older roof, finding a tile that fits properly can be more important than finding one that simply looks close from the ground. We have several older profiles/colors at our warehouse in Freeport.  We also work with a local supplier who has a “boneyard” of older discontinued tiles.

We also want to know why the tile broke. If there’s another issue causing the damage, replacing the tile without correcting the cause doesn’t accomplish much.

My tile looks good. Could the underlayment still be bad?

Yes.

This is something homeowners sometimes don’t realize until they develop a leak.

Roof tile can remain attractive for a long time. The condition of the tile doesn’t necessarily tell you the condition of everything underneath it.

Underlayment, flashing, penetrations, and other components can age or develop problems even though the tile itself still looks good.

That’s why we don’t like diagnosing a tile roof solely from pictures taken from the ground.

Can I remove my tile roof and replace it with shingles?

Sometimes.

We’ve completed projects where homeowners removed an existing tile roof and went back with an architectural shingle roofing system.

But there are several things to consider before doing it.

The existing roof needs to be evaluated, the proposed roofing system has to meet applicable requirements, and if the home is in an HOA or architectural-control community, the new roofing material and color may need approval.

We’ve encountered this in communities around Destin where roofing materials and colors are controlled by architectural guidelines.

So yes, it can be done in the right situation—but it’s something we want to evaluate before ordering materials.

Can I replace my shingle roof with tile?

This requires more investigation.

Tile is considerably heavier than asphalt shingles, so we can’t assume that a house originally roofed with shingles is automatically suitable for tile.

The structure, roof design, proposed tile system, applicable building requirements, and potentially engineering all need to be considered.

If you’re interested in making that change, we’d evaluate the property before telling you it’s an option.

Underlayment and Water Protection

What is peel-and-stick underlayment?

Peel-and-stick is a self-adhering roofing underlayment installed over an appropriate roof-deck surface.

You’ll hear the term frequently in Florida because underlayment is an important part of the roofing system, particularly when we’re dealing with severe weather and wind-driven rain.

But homeowners should understand that “peel-and-stick” describes a category of product—not every installation detail of the roof.

The actual product, how it is installed, the roof covering going over it, and the requirements for that particular roofing system all matter.

Is peel-and-stick the same thing as a sealed roof deck?

Not necessarily.

This is an area where terminology can get confusing, especially when homeowners start talking about wind-mitigation inspections.

A homeowner may hear “peel-and-stick,” “sealed roof deck,” and “secondary water resistance” used in the same conversation and assume they all mean exactly the same thing.

They don’t always.

Whether a particular installation qualifies for a specific wind-mitigation designation depends on the actual system and how it was installed.

If obtaining a particular wind-mitigation feature is important to you, it’s worth discussing before the roof is installed, not after.

What does SWR mean on a Florida wind mitigation?

SWR stands for Secondary Water Resistance.

It’s something Florida homeowners often encounter on a wind-mitigation inspection.

The basic idea is additional protection against water intrusion if the primary roof covering is damaged during severe weather.

What matters for an inspection, however, is whether the actual installation meets the applicable criteria. Simply seeing a self-adhered product on a jobsite doesn’t necessarily answer that question.

This is another reason documentation during a roof replacement can be valuable.

Metal Roofing Questions

Are metal roofs good for Florida homes?

Yes, a properly selected and installed metal roofing system can be an excellent option for a Florida home.

Metal roofing is popular throughout North Florida and the Florida Panhandle for several reasons. It provides a distinctive appearance, there are different systems available for different budgets and homes, and a properly designed system can perform very well in Florida’s demanding weather.

But saying you have a “metal roof” doesn’t tell us enough.

The type of panel, metal thickness, coating, fastening system, underlayment, flashing details, roof design, product approval, and installation all matter.

We see a big difference between simply putting metal panels on a house and installing a complete metal roofing system correctly.

What is the difference between standing seam and exposed-fastener metal roofing?

The biggest difference is right in the name.

On an exposed-fastener metal roof, screws penetrate through the face of the metal panels and remain visible. The screws typically have washers that help seal the penetration.

On a standing seam metal roof, the primary panel fasteners are concealed beneath the roofing system. The panels connect at raised vertical seams, giving the roof the clean appearance many homeowners associate with higher-end metal roofing.

Both systems can have their place.

We install exposed-fastener metal roofing as well as standing seam systems. The right choice depends on the home, roof design, budget, appearance the homeowner wants, and the specific application.

For many custom and coastal homes around Destin and the Emerald Coast, standing seam is chosen because homeowners prefer its clean architectural appearance and concealed fastening system.

What is 5V-crimp metal roofing?

5V-crimp is a traditional exposed-fastener metal roofing profile that has been used throughout Florida for many years.

The name comes from the distinctive V-shaped ribs formed into the panel.

People sometimes use “5V,” “metal roof,” and “standing seam” interchangeably, but they aren’t the same roofing system.

A 5V roof has exposed fasteners through the panels. Standing seam generally conceals the primary panel fasteners.

If you’re comparing estimates for metal roofing, make sure you’re comparing the actual panel systems, not simply the words “metal roof.”

What is an AG panel?

An AG panel is another type of exposed-fastener metal panel.  Around the Florida Panhandle, this style of panel is also commonly referred to by names such as Tuff-Rib, Max-Rib, or Gulf-Rib, depending on the manufacturer or supplier..  You’ll see variations of this ribbed panel style on residential buildings, barns, workshops, garages, and other structures throughout the Florida Panhandle.

Like other exposed-fastener systems, screws penetrate through the face of the panel.

An AG panel and a standing seam panel can both be made from steel, but they’re very different roofing systems.

This is another reason a roofing estimate should identify the actual panel being installed rather than simply saying “metal roofing.”

Is standing seam metal roofing better than exposed-fastener metal?

“Better” depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

Standing seam provides concealed primary panel fasteners and a very clean appearance. For homeowners building or reroofing a higher-end home, those can be important advantages.

Exposed-fastener metal is generally a simpler system and can make sense where budget or the type of structure makes it the more practical choice.

One consideration with exposed-fastener roofs is that the screws and washers are exposed to weather. They become part of the maintenance conversation as the roof ages.

We’d rather explain the differences between the systems and let the homeowner make an informed decision than tell everyone they need the most expensive option.

What gauge metal roof should I use in Florida?

This is a question where we don’t like giving a universal answer.

You’ll commonly hear metal roofing described as 24-gauge, 26-gauge, and other thicknesses. A lower gauge number generally means thicker steel.

But gauge alone doesn’t tell you whether a roofing system is appropriate for a particular house.

The specific panel profile, metal, attachment method, clip or fastener spacing, roof deck, design pressures, product approval, manufacturer requirements, and location of the building all matter.

Florida metal roof systems are installed according to the applicable approved system and installation requirements. The roof needs to be appropriate for the pressures and conditions of the particular building.

So we don’t choose a metal roof simply by saying, “26-gauge is good enough” or “24-gauge is always better.”

We look at the entire approved roofing system.

Are metal roofs better in hurricanes?

Metal roofing can provide excellent wind performance when the complete roofing system is designed and installed correctly, but we don’t describe any roof as hurricane-proof.

The panel is only part of the equation.

Panel attachment, clips or fasteners, spacing, roof zones, edge details, flashing, decking, substrate, roof geometry, and the tested or approved assembly can all affect performance.

Florida’s roofing requirements recognize this. Metal roof panels are required to be secured according to the applicable system and manufacturer’s installation requirements.

That’s why two roofs that look nearly identical from the street can be very different underneath.

Can I install a metal roof near the Gulf?

Yes, but this is one of the areas where product selection becomes especially important.

Homes near the Gulf of Mexico are exposed to salt carried through the coastal environment. Salt can be aggressive toward certain metals, coatings, fasteners, cut edges, and accessories.

We pay attention to the manufacturer’s requirements and warranty limitations for the particular metal roofing product being considered.

Some manufacturers have specific restrictions or warranty conditions based on proximity to saltwater or breaking surf.

If you’re considering metal roofing for a beachfront or near-coastal home, this is something that should be discussed before choosing the panel and coating, not after the roof has been installed.

Will a metal roof rust near the Gulf?

It can if the wrong materials are used or if protective coatings and components deteriorate.

Modern painted and coated metal roofing products are designed to resist corrosion, but no homeowner should assume that every metal panel is equally appropriate for every coastal environment.

The panel coating matters. So do screws, clips, flashing, accessories, exposed edges, dissimilar metals, and the distance from saltwater.

A metal roof several miles inland and a metal roof directly across from the Gulf can experience very different exposure.

For coastal projects along the Emerald Coast, we want to know exactly where the house is located before recommending a particular metal roofing system.

Why do fasteners matter so much on a metal roof?

Because they’re part of what holds the roofing system to the house.

With exposed-fastener roofing, they’re also part of the weather-resistant surface because the fastener penetrates the panel.

Standing seam systems generally conceal the primary panel fasteners, but the clips, screws, cleats, and other attachment components underneath still matter.

The Florida Building Code specifically addresses attachment of metal roof panels and requires them to be secured according to the applicable approved system/manufacturer requirements.

This is one of those roofing details homeowners may never see once the project is finished, but it can be extremely important to how the roof performs.

How long do the screws last on an exposed-fastener metal roof?

There isn’t a date we can circle on a calendar and say every exposed-fastener metal roof will need its screws replaced at that point.

The fasteners and sealing washers are exposed to Florida’s sunlight, heat, heavy rain, expansion and contraction, and—in coastal areas—salt exposure. Because the screws penetrate the roofing panels, they are an important part of both the attachment and weather protection of an exposed-fastener metal roof.

On our exposed-fastener metal roofing systems, we use SFS WoodZAC® HiLo metal-to-wood fasteners. These fasteners feature a zinc-aluminum capped head and an aluminum bond seal washer. We choose a quality long-life fastener because we believe the screws are too important a part of the roofing system to treat as an afterthought.

The quality of the fastener is important, but so is how it is installed. An exposed-fastener roof can have thousands of individual screws, and each one needs to be properly installed. Improperly driven fasteners can affect the attachment or compromise the seal around the screw.

As an exposed-fastener roof ages, the screws and sealing washers should be included as part of a routine roof evaluation. Loose or backed-out fasteners, deteriorated seals, or other problems should be addressed before they become a source of water intrusion.

If someone tells you an exposed-fastener metal roof will never need attention because “metal lasts forever,” they’re leaving out an important part of the roofing system.

Is a metal roof loud when it rains?

Usually not in the way people imagine.

Many people picture rain hitting the metal roof of an open barn or shed.

A residential metal roof is installed as part of a complete building assembly with roof decking, underlayment, insulation, ceilings, attic space, and other materials between the metal panel and the living area.

Heavy rain will still make noise on a roof, but a properly constructed residential metal roof is very different from a bare sheet of metal over an open structure.

Does a metal roof make my house hotter?

Not simply because it’s metal.

Roof temperature and heat transfer into a home involve several factors, including the roof color and coating, attic ventilation, insulation, roof assembly, sun exposure, and the construction of the house.

Different metal colors and coatings can also have different solar-reflectance characteristics.

We wouldn’t recommend choosing or rejecting metal roofing based solely on the idea that “metal gets hot.”

The complete roof and building assembly matters.

Can you install metal roofing over existing shingles?

While some roofing systems may allow metal to be installed over an existing shingle roof, Assurance Residential does not perform roof-over installations.

When we replace a roof, we remove the existing roofing material so we can see what is underneath it.

Installing a new metal roof directly over old shingles can conceal problems that aren’t visible from the surface. Damaged or deteriorated decking, previous leaks, improper repairs, soft wood, flashing problems, and other issues may remain hidden beneath the existing roof.

We believe a roof replacement is the time to expose and inspect the roof deck, address any problems we find, and start the new roofing system on a properly prepared surface.

Covering an old roofing system may save a step during installation, but it also takes away the opportunity to see and correct what’s underneath it.

If we’re going to put a new roof on your home, we want to know what we’re putting it on.

Are all standing seam metal roofs the same?

No. This is something homeowners should understand when comparing metal roofing estimates.

Two contractors can both quote a “standing seam metal roof” while actually proposing different panel and attachment systems.

One common option is a clip-fastened standing seam system. The panels are attached to the roof using separate concealed clips underneath the seams. Depending on the specific system, these clips allow the metal panels to move as they expand and contract with temperature changes.

Another option is a nail-strip or fastener-flange standing seam panel. With this type of system, the attachment flange is built into the edge of the panel. Fasteners are installed through that flange and then concealed when the adjoining panel snaps into place.

Both systems provide the clean appearance and concealed fasteners associated with standing seam roofing, but they don’t manage panel movement in exactly the same way.

For many of the standing seam roofs we install, we prefer a properly designed clip system, particularly on longer panels. Metal naturally expands when it gets hot and contracts when it cools. A clip system designed to accommodate that movement can allow the panels to expand and contract with less restriction.

That movement becomes particularly important on long metal panels exposed to Florida’s intense sun and changing temperatures.

There are also different seam heights, panel widths, metal gauges, coatings, clip designs, and mechanically seamed systems available. That’s why “standing seam” by itself isn’t enough information to properly compare two roofing proposals.

When comparing estimates, ask the contractor which standing seam panel system is being proposed, how the panels are attached, what gauge metal is being used, and how the system accommodates thermal expansion and contraction.

Florida Roofing Questions About Shingle Roofs

Are architectural shingles a good choice for Florida homes?

Yes. Architectural shingles are still one of the most common roofing systems we install in Florida, and a quality shingle system can be a very good choice for many homes.

They’re available in a wide range of colors and styles, are generally more affordable than tile or standing seam metal, and today’s better architectural shingles are designed with wind performance in mind.

As with any roof, though, the shingle is only one part of the system.

The roof deck, underlayment, starter shingles, flashing, ventilation, drip edge, fasteners, and installation all contribute to how the finished roof performs.

We would rather install a complete, properly matched roofing system than choose a shingle based only on the name printed on the package.

How long do architectural shingles last in Florida?

We don’t give homeowners a blanket answer such as “your shingles will last exactly 25 or 30 years.”

Florida is tough on roofs.

Intense UV exposure, high roof temperatures, humidity, heavy rain, tropical weather, and wind all contribute to how a shingle roof ages. Roof design, ventilation, installation quality, storm history, surrounding trees, and proximity to the coast can also make a difference.

Manufacturer warranty periods shouldn’t automatically be interpreted as the exact number of years a roof will remain problem-free.

We prefer to evaluate the actual condition of the roof rather than judge it solely by the date it was installed.

What type of shingles does Assurance Residential install?

We install architectural shingle roofing systems from established manufacturers and select the product based on the particular project.

One of the primary shingle lines we work with is GAF Timberline, including Timberline HDZ and, when appropriate for the project, Timberline UHDZ.

There are also other quality shingle manufacturers and products available.

The specific shingle matters, but so does the complete roofing system and the contractor installing it. A premium shingle doesn’t correct poor flashing, improper fastening, bad decking, or installation mistakes.

What is the difference between architectural shingles and 3-tab shingles?

Traditional 3-tab shingles have a flatter, more uniform appearance. Architectural shingles use multiple layers or dimensional construction to create a heavier, more textured appearance.

All of the residential shingle roofs we install today use architectural shingles.

Beyond appearance, homeowners should compare the actual product specifications, approved installation, warranty, and wind-performance requirements rather than assuming all asphalt shingles are essentially the same.

What does a shingle’s wind rating actually mean?

This is an area where marketing language can create confusion.

A manufacturer’s published wind rating does not mean a roof is hurricane-proof or that shingles can never come off in winds below a particular speed.

Wind performance depends on the specific shingle system, installation method, roof geometry, fastening, starter course, sealant activation, roof condition, and whether the system was installed according to the manufacturer’s requirements.

The edges and corners of a roof can also experience different wind pressures than the main field of the roof.

When we’re installing a shingle roof in the Florida Panhandle, we pay attention to the complete approved roofing system, not simply a wind-speed number printed in a brochure.

Why do shingles sometimes blow off a relatively new roof?

Age isn’t the only reason shingles can come loose.

We’ve seen problems related to improper nailing, fasteners placed outside the required nail zone, inadequate fastening, poor starter installation, shingles that didn’t properly seal, installation problems around roof edges, and damage caused by severe weather.

Sometimes what initially looks like a defective shingle turns out to be an installation problem.

That’s why determining how and why the shingles failed matters before deciding what needs to be repaired.

Why is the starter shingle important?

The starter course is easy to overlook because most homeowners never see it once the roof is finished.

But it serves an important purpose at the roof edges.  We use proper starters on the Eve as well as the Rakes.

A properly installed starter system helps secure and seal the first course of shingles at areas where wind can exert significant uplift forces.

Simply cutting up field shingles and calling them starter isn’t necessarily the same as installing the starter product specified for the roofing system.

It’s another example of a component that isn’t particularly exciting to look at but matters to the finished roof.

Does shingle color make a difference in Florida?

Color certainly affects the appearance of the house, and different roofing products and colors can have different solar characteristics.

But we wouldn’t tell a homeowner that choosing one particular shingle color by itself is going to solve attic-temperature or energy-efficiency problems.

Roof color is only one part of a much larger building system that includes insulation, attic ventilation, air sealing, roof design, and other factors.

For many homeowners, the first consideration is choosing a color that works well with the architecture and exterior finishes of the home.

What is the difference between synthetic underlayment and peel-and-stick under shingles?

Synthetic underlayment is generally mechanically attached to the roof deck, while self-adhered or “peel-and-stick” underlayment bonds directly to an appropriate roof-deck surface.

Both can be components of approved roofing systems depending on the application.

In Florida, homeowners also frequently ask about peel-and-stick because of wind mitigation and secondary water resistance.

As we mentioned earlier, the important question isn’t simply “Do I have peel-and-stick?”

It’s what product was installed, where it was installed, how it was installed, and whether the completed assembly meets the requirements relevant to the roofing system and any wind-mitigation feature the homeowner is trying to achieve.

Should the old shingles be removed before installing a new shingle roof?

That’s how we do it. Assurance Residential does not install a new shingle roof over an existing shingle roof.

We want the old roofing material removed so we can see the roof deck underneath.

Once the shingles and existing underlayment are removed, we have an opportunity to identify damaged decking, soft areas, previous leaks, questionable repairs, and other conditions that may have been hidden.

If we simply cover the existing roof, those problems can stay concealed beneath the new roofing system.

Our philosophy is straightforward: if we’re replacing your roof, we want to know what’s underneath it before we cover it back up.

What happens if you find rotten or damaged wood during a roof replacement?

This is one reason we remove the existing roofing material.

You can’t properly evaluate every part of the roof deck while it’s covered with shingles and underlayment.

If we uncover damaged, deteriorated, or otherwise unsuitable decking, it needs to be addressed before the new roofing system covers that area.

The amount of decking that needs attention can vary considerably from one house to another. Sometimes there’s very little. On another roof, a history of leaks or other problems may reveal more once the old material comes off.

Homeowners should understand how their roofing contractor handles decking replacement before the project starts, including how additional work will be documented and priced.

What does a shingle manufacturer’s warranty actually cover?

This is a question worth asking before choosing a roof.

There can be several different warranties associated with a roofing project, and they don’t all cover the same thing.

A manufacturer may provide coverage related to the roofing materials, while the contractor may provide separate coverage for workmanship. Manufacturers may also offer enhanced warranty options when qualifying roofing systems are installed by contractors meeting particular requirements.

The length printed on a shingle package doesn’t mean that every possible roofing problem is covered for that entire period.

Ask what warranty you’re actually receiving, what components are included, what the coverage provides, whether it changes over time, and who is responsible if there’s a workmanship problem.

Does the roofing contractor’s manufacturer certification matter?

Yes, particularly if you want access to enhanced manufacturer warranty options.

Assurance Residential is a GAF Master Elite® roofing contractor. That designation allows us to offer GAF enhanced warranty options on qualifying roofing systems, including the Golden Pledge® Limited Warranty.

That’s an important distinction because not every contractor installing GAF shingles can offer every GAF warranty.

Enhanced warranties can provide broader protection than the standard warranty that comes with the roofing materials. Depending on the roofing system and warranty selected, that can include enhanced coverage for the GAF roofing system and, with certain warranties, coverage related to workmanship.

We go over the available warranty options with homeowners so they understand what’s included, what products are required for the roofing system to qualify, and what the warranty actually covers.

A manufacturer’s certification isn’t the only thing you should consider when hiring a roofer. Licensing, experience, installation practices, local history, and who will be there if you have a problem years later still matter.

But if two contractors are proposing similar GAF roofing systems, it’s worth asking each one:

What GAF warranty will I receive, and are you authorized to offer GAF’s enhanced warranty options?

What are the dark streaks I see on shingle roofs in Florida?

Those dark streaks are often associated with algae growth rather than the shingles simply being “dirty.”  Commonly found on the North facing slopes of the roof.

Florida’s warm, humid environment can make roof discoloration particularly noticeable.

Many modern shingles incorporate algae resistant technology intended to help reduce staining, but the specific technology and coverage vary by product.

If appearance and algae resistance are important to you, that’s something worth comparing when selecting shingles rather than waiting until after the roof is installed.

Should I pressure wash my shingle roof?

We don’t recommend treating a shingle roof like a driveway.

Aggressive pressure washing can damage the shingle surface and remove protective granules.

If a roof needs cleaning, homeowners should follow the roofing manufacturer’s recommendations and use a cleaning method appropriate for the particular roofing product.

Before hiring someone to clean a relatively new roof, it’s also worth checking the manufacturer’s instructions so the cleaning method doesn’t create a warranty issue.  There are soft wash companies that specialize in this area.

Have a Florida Roofing Question?

If you have questions about your roof, need a repair, or are considering a roof replacement, contact Assurance Residential. We’re happy to take a look at your roofing needs and discuss your options.

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